Historic recipe from Malinda Russell's 1866 cookbook "A Domestic Cook Book". Page 27. One of the earliest known cookbooks by an African American author.
The yeast fermentation creates carbon dioxide bubbles that expand when fried, producing a light, airy interior while the high sugar content caramelizes on the exterior for a crispy crust. The eggs provide structure and richness, while the butter creates tender layers by coating flour proteins and limiting gluten development. Frying at the right temperature sets the exterior quickly, trapping steam inside for maximum puffiness similar to doughnuts.
Before You Begin
•Use active dry yeast (about 2 tablespoons or one packet) for the '½ cup yeast' measurement, as historical measurements differ from modern standards
•Warm the milk to 110°F before adding yeast to ensure proper activation without killing the yeast
•Plan for 2-3 hours total rising time: first rise after mixing batter (45-60 minutes), second rise after shaping (30-45 minutes)
•The 'thick batter' stage requires approximately 3-4 cups of flour; add gradually until it resembles thick pancake batter before the first rise
•After the second rise, the dough should be soft but workable—add just enough flour to roll out to ½-inch thickness
Community Notes
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•Heat frying oil to 350-375°F; too cool and they'll absorb grease, too hot and they'll burn before cooking through
Key Equipment
Large mixing bowl for proofingDeep heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven for frying (at least 3 inches deep)Candy or deep-fry thermometerRolling pinBiscuit cutter or sharp knife for cutting shapesWire rack set over baking sheet for draining
Ingredients
Instructions
1
Two cups sugar, half cup butter, half cup yeast, half pint sweet milk, three eggs, flour to make a thick batter; set away to rise; when light mix to a dough, rise again; roll; cut and fry.
Make Ahead
The dough can be prepared through the first rise, then covered tightly and refrigerated for up to 24 hours. Bring to room temperature (about 1 hour) before rolling, cutting, and proceeding with the second rise. The cold fermentation actually develops more complex flavors.
Storage
Store cooled fried rusks in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days. They're best enjoyed within 24 hours but can be refreshed by warming in a 300°F oven for 5-7 minutes. Do not refrigerate as this accelerates staling. Can be frozen for up to 1 month; thaw at room temperature and refresh in the oven.
