
Historic recipe from Malinda Russell's 1866 cookbook "A Domestic Cook Book". Page 32. One of the earliest known cookbooks by an African American author.
Rubbing cold lard into flour creates a flaky pastry through lamination—the fat coats flour particles, preventing gluten development and creating steam pockets during baking. Rolling the berry-filled dough into a spiral maximizes surface area for caramelization while the sugar-butter syrup in the pan bastes the rolls, creating a glossy, jammy sauce. Slow baking allows the fruit to break down and thicken without scorching the pastry.
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Rub lard with flour with a little salt, water or milk to make sufficient dough roll thin; spread over with berries; roll up the crust and put into a dripping-pan in rolls close together until full, then put into the pan butter, sugar and water; bake slowly.
Sauce—butter, sugar, brandy and water.
The dough can be prepared up to 1 day ahead, wrapped tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerated. The assembled unbaked rolls can be covered and refrigerated for up to 4 hours before baking. Add 5-10 minutes to baking time if starting from cold.
Store leftover rolls in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. The pastry will soften as it absorbs moisture from the fruit. Reheat individual portions in a 350°F oven for 8-10 minutes to crisp the exterior, or microwave for 20-30 seconds for a softer texture.
