
Historic recipe from Malinda Russell's 1866 cookbook "A Domestic Cook Book". Page 36. One of the earliest known cookbooks by an African American author.
Beating egg whites with sugar creates a stable meringue through protein denaturation—the mechanical action unfolds egg proteins that trap air bubbles, while sugar stabilizes the foam by increasing viscosity and delaying coagulation. The dry, stewed apples are essential because excess moisture would deflate the meringue; removing water concentrates the apple flavor and prevents weeping. Layering the airy apple meringue over custard creates a striking textural contrast that defined Victorian-era desserts.
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Add a spoonful of sugar, six apples stewed and drained until quite dry; beat all together, then make a soft custard, put in the bottom of a dish, lay the float on top of it.
The stewed apples can be prepared up to 2 days ahead, drained thoroughly, and refrigerated in an airtight container. Bring to room temperature before folding into meringue. The custard can be made 1 day ahead and refrigerated. The final float must be assembled shortly before serving as the meringue will deflate and weep over time.
This dessert is best served within 2-3 hours of assembly. The meringue will begin to weep and lose volume if stored. If you must refrigerate leftovers, cover loosely and consume within 24 hours, understanding the texture will be compromised.