Historic recipe from Malinda Russell's 1866 cookbook "A Domestic Cook Book". Page 32. One of the earliest known cookbooks by an African American author.
This historic yeast bread relies on a potato ferment starter (the 'yeast' referenced would have been homemade from fermented potatoes) which provides wild yeasts and lactic acid bacteria for leavening and flavor. The milk adds fat and proteins that create a tender crumb and golden crust through Maillard browning. Adding eggs after the first rise enriches the dough with lecithin, which acts as an emulsifier to create a softer, more cake-like texture. The final warm rise develops additional flavor while the quick, hot oven creates rapid steam expansion for maximum lift.
When light, work in lard or butter if sour, work in a little soda with the , knead well, then break in a couple of , knead well, make into small rolls, and set where it will keep warm; it will rise in a few minutes; bake in a quick oven.
The dough can be made through the first rise, then punched down and refrigerated for up to 24 hours. Bring to room temperature, add eggs, shape into rolls, and proceed with the final rise and baking. Baked rolls can be frozen for up to 3 months; wrap tightly in plastic wrap and aluminum foil.
Store baked rolls in an airtight container or plastic bag at room temperature for up to 3 days. For longer storage, freeze for up to 3 months. Refresh day-old rolls by wrapping in foil and warming in a 300°F oven for 10 minutes.
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