Historic recipe from Malinda Russell's 1866 cookbook "A Domestic Cook Book". Page 22. One of the earliest known cookbooks by an African American author.
Beating egg yolks with sugar creates a stable foam through mechanical incorporation of air, while the sugar dissolves and helps stabilize the structure. Mixing butter into warm sweet potatoes allows the fat to emulsify smoothly throughout the starch matrix. Folding in stiffly beaten egg whites last preserves their aerated structure, creating a light, soufflé-like texture rather than a dense pudding. The flour provides just enough structure to hold everything together during baking.
Boil six or eight large sweet potatoes, peel them, strain through a colander, separate six and one cup , beat the yelks, and together until light, mix the potato and one cup while the potato is warm; beat the whites to a stiff froth, and add them last; flavor with , a cup three tablespoons .
The sweet potatoes can be boiled, peeled, and strained up to 1 day ahead; store covered in the refrigerator and bring to room temperature before proceeding. The pudding is best baked and served fresh, as the airy texture will deflate upon standing.
Store leftover pudding covered in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. The texture will become denser and more custard-like as it sits. Serve chilled or reheat individual portions in the microwave for 30-45 seconds, though it will not regain its original light texture.
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