Historic recipe from Malinda Russell's 1866 cookbook "A Domestic Cook Book". Page 26. One of the earliest known cookbooks by an African American author.
This historic recipe uses a chemical leavening system where cream of tartar (an acid) reacts with baking soda (a base) to produce carbon dioxide gas, creating a tender, risen roll without yeast. The mechanical action of kneading and pounding develops just enough gluten structure to trap the gas bubbles while keeping the crumb soft. Rubbing cold butter into the flour coats some of the flour particles, limiting gluten development and creating a more tender, biscuit-like texture.
Three pints flour, a piece of butter half the size of a hen's egg rubbed into the flour; mix through the flour one tablespoon cream tartar, dissolve in sweet milk one teaspoon soda, knead and pound well, make in small rolls, and bake in a quick oven.
The dry ingredients (flour, cream of tartar, and butter) can be rubbed together and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. Add the soda-milk mixture and proceed with kneading just before baking, as the leavening reaction cannot be paused once activated.
Store baked rolls in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days. For longer storage, freeze in a freezer bag for up to 1 month. Reheat frozen rolls in a 350°F oven for 8-10 minutes or until warmed through.
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