Historic recipe from Malinda Russell's 1866 cookbook "A Domestic Cook Book". Page 12. One of the earliest known cookbooks by an African American author.
This historic cake relies on whipped egg whites as the sole leavening agent, creating structure through the coagulation of albumin proteins during baking. Creaming butter and sugar incorporates air cells that expand when heated, while the high ratio of eggs to flour produces a delicate, tender crumb similar to angel food cake. The brandy and lemon not only flavor the cake but also tenderize the gluten structure through their acidity and alcohol content.
Before You Begin
•Bring egg whites to room temperature (65-70°F) for at least 30 minutes—they'll whip to greater volume than cold eggs
•Separate eggs carefully, ensuring no yolk contaminates the whites, as even a trace of fat will prevent proper whipping
•Measure ingredients by weight if possible; historic recipes assume packed measurements that differ from modern cup measures
•Note that 'cochineal' is a natural red dye from insects—substitute with 1-2 teaspoons red food coloring or beet powder for a similar rose-colored effect
•Prepare parchment paper or greased paper for lining the pan before mixing, as the batter should be baked immediately after assembly
Community Notes
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Stand mixer or hand mixer for whipping egg whites to stiff peaks9-inch round cake pan or 9x13-inch rectangular pan, at least 2 inches deepParchment paper or buttered paper for lining panPastry bag or zip-top bag with corner cut off (for the soda water technique)Fine-mesh strainer for removing any egg shell fragments
Ingredients
Instructions
1
Cream the sugar and butter together
2
Add the flour and whites of eggs
3
Add brandy and lemon flavoring
4
Grease paper your pan
5
Spread a layer of dough
6
Dip your bag in a solution of warm soda water, then squeeze the bag over the dough
7
Add another laying of dough and cochineal alternately
8
Bake with moderate heat
Make Ahead
The cake can be baked up to 2 days ahead. Once completely cooled, wrap tightly in plastic wrap and store at room temperature. The flavors will actually meld and improve after 24 hours. Do not frost until ready to serve.
Storage
Store unfrosted cake in an airtight container or wrapped tightly in plastic wrap at room temperature for up to 4 days, or refrigerate for up to 1 week. The high egg and butter content keeps it moist. Bring to room temperature before serving for best flavor and texture. Can be frozen, wrapped in plastic and foil, for up to 2 months.
