Historic recipe from Malinda Russell's 1866 cookbook "A Domestic Cook Book". Page 13. One of the earliest known cookbooks by an African American author.
Creaming butter and sugar creates air pockets that expand during baking, producing a tender crumb. Adding egg yolks before whites builds a stable emulsion that holds fat and liquid together, while separately beaten egg whites (though not specified in the original, this technique was common in 1866) would contribute additional lift. The soda (baking soda) reacts with the acidic lemon juice to produce carbon dioxide, further leavening the cake, while the lemon's acidity also tenderizes the gluten structure.
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Rub butter and sugar to a cream
Add yelks of eggs
Add soda in milk
Add juice and rind of lemon
Add whites of eggs
Sift in flour
Bake
The cake can be baked up to 2 days ahead, cooled completely, wrapped tightly in plastic wrap, and stored at room temperature. For longer storage, wrap in plastic and then aluminum foil and freeze for up to 2 months; thaw overnight at room temperature before serving.
Store the unfrosted cake in an airtight container or wrapped tightly in plastic wrap at room temperature for up to 3 days. If frosted, refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 5 days and bring to room temperature 30 minutes before serving for best texture and flavor.
