Historic recipe from Malinda Russell's 1866 cookbook "A Domestic Cook Book". Page 13. One of the earliest known cookbooks by an African American author.
Creaming butter and sugar creates air pockets that expand during baking, producing a tender crumb. Adding egg yolks before whites builds a stable emulsion that holds fat and liquid together, while separately beaten egg whites (though not specified in the original, this technique was common in 1866) would contribute additional lift. The soda (baking soda) reacts with the acidic lemon juice to produce carbon dioxide, further leavening the cake, while the lemon's acidity also tenderizes the gluten structure.
Before You Begin
•Bring butter and eggs to room temperature (68-70°F) for 1-2 hours to ensure proper emulsification and prevent curdling
•The recipe calls for 'soda in milk' but doesn't specify milk quantity; use 1/4 cup whole milk to dissolve the teaspoon of baking soda
•Zest the lemon before juicing it, and avoid the bitter white pith
•Grease and flour a 9x13-inch baking pan or two 9-inch round cake pans, as the original recipe doesn't specify pan size or temperature—use 350°F
•Beat the egg whites to soft peaks separately before folding them in for maximum volume and tender texture
Community Notes
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•Sift the flour directly into the batter in three additions, folding gently to avoid deflating the air you've incorporated
Key Equipment
Stand mixer or large bowl with hand mixer9x13-inch baking pan or two 9-inch round cake pansMicroplane or fine grater for lemon zestRubber spatula for foldingWire cooling rack
Ingredients
Instructions
1
Rub butter and sugar to a cream
2
Add yelks of eggs
3
Add soda in milk
4
Add juice and rind of lemon
5
Add whites of eggs
6
Sift in flour
7
Bake
Make Ahead
The cake can be baked up to 2 days ahead, cooled completely, wrapped tightly in plastic wrap, and stored at room temperature. For longer storage, wrap in plastic and then aluminum foil and freeze for up to 2 months; thaw overnight at room temperature before serving.
Storage
Store the unfrosted cake in an airtight container or wrapped tightly in plastic wrap at room temperature for up to 3 days. If frosted, refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 5 days and bring to room temperature 30 minutes before serving for best texture and flavor.