Historic recipe from Malinda Russell's 1866 cookbook "A Domestic Cook Book". Page 17. One of the earliest known cookbooks by an African American author.
The combination of baking soda dissolved in milk and cream of tartar mixed into flour creates a dual-action leavening system that produces carbon dioxide when wet and again when heated, resulting in a tender, well-risen cake. The high sugar-to-butter ratio creates a fine, delicate crumb through sugar's ability to tenderize gluten and retain moisture. The brandy and lemon juice not only add flavor but also provide acidity that strengthens the chemical leavening reaction and tenderizes the cake structure.
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Dissolve the soda in the milk
Mix the cream tartar in the flour
Mix ingredients together
Bake
The cake can be baked up to 2 days ahead. Once completely cooled, wrap tightly in plastic wrap and store at room temperature. The flavor actually improves as the brandy and lemon meld with the cake.
Store the cake covered at room temperature for up to 3 days, or wrap tightly and refrigerate for up to 1 week. The cake can also be frozen for up to 3 months—wrap in plastic wrap, then aluminum foil. Thaw at room temperature for 2-3 hours before serving.