Historic recipe from Malinda Russell's 1866 cookbook "A Domestic Cook Book". Page 24. One of the earliest known cookbooks by an African American author.
The combination of butter and sour milk creates a tender crumb through fat coating of gluten strands, while the acid in sour milk activates baking soda to produce carbon dioxide for lift. The high sugar content interferes with gluten development and absorbs moisture during frying, creating a crisp exterior that gives way to a soft, cake-like interior. Frying in lard at the proper temperature (365-375°F) sets the exterior quickly, preventing excessive oil absorption while allowing the interior to cook through.
Before You Begin
•If you don't have sour milk, add 1 tablespoon white vinegar or lemon juice to 1 cup whole milk and let stand 10 minutes
•Bring eggs and butter to room temperature for easier mixing and better emulsification
•Use a candy/deep-fry thermometer to monitor oil temperature—too cool and crullers absorb grease, too hot and they brown before cooking through
•Prepare a wire rack set over a baking sheet lined with paper towels for draining
•The dough should be soft but not sticky—add flour gradually until it's just firm enough to roll and cut
Community Notes
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•Work with half the dough at a time, keeping the rest refrigerated to prevent it from becoming too soft to handle
Key Equipment
Stand mixer or large mixing bowl and wooden spoonDeep heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven (at least 3-quart capacity)Candy or deep-fry thermometerRolling pin and floured surface3-inch round cutter or glass and smaller 1-inch cutter for centersSpider skimmer or slotted spoonWire cooling rack
Ingredients
Instructions
1
Two cups sugar, one cup butter, one do.
2
sour milk, six eggs, one teaspoon soda, grated nutmeg, flour to mix a soft dough; boil in lard.
Make Ahead
The dough can be made up to 1 day ahead, wrapped tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerated. Let it sit at room temperature for 15-20 minutes before rolling to make it easier to work with. Fried crullers are best served within 2-3 hours of frying for optimal texture.
Storage
Store cooled crullers in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days. They will lose some crispness but can be refreshed in a 350°F oven for 3-5 minutes. Do not refrigerate as this accelerates staling. For longer storage, freeze unfrosted crullers in a single layer, then transfer to a freezer bag for up to 1 month.
