Historic recipe from Malinda Russell's 1866 cookbook "A Domestic Cook Book". Page 11. One of the earliest known cookbooks by an African American author.
Separating and beating egg whites creates a stable foam structure that traps air, providing lift without chemical leaveners—essential for traditional sponge cakes. The extended beating of yolks with sugar (a process called ribboning) creates an emulsion that incorporates air while dissolving sugar crystals, contributing to the cake's light texture. The high proportion of ground almonds adds fat and protein that helps stabilize the delicate egg foam structure while providing moisture and rich flavor. Rose water and brandy not only add aromatic complexity but also help tenderize the crumb by interfering with gluten development.
Before You Begin
•Bring all 10 eggs to room temperature (about 1 hour on counter) for maximum volume when beaten—cold eggs won't foam properly
•Blanch and finely grind the almonds to a flour-like consistency, or use 4.5 cups almond flour; coarsely ground almonds will make the cake dense
•Separate eggs carefully—even a drop of yolk in the whites will prevent them from whipping to stiff peaks
•Have all ingredients measured and ready before you begin, as this batter deflates quickly once assembled
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Preheat your oven to 325°F and prepare your pan before mixing—the batter should go into the oven immediately after folding
•Use superfine or caster sugar if possible for faster dissolution into the yolks
Key Equipment
Stand mixer or hand mixer with whisk attachmentTwo large mixing bowls10-inch tube pan or bundt pan, buttered and flouredRubber spatula for foldingFine-mesh strainer or food processor for grinding almonds
Ingredients
Instructions
1
Beat the sugar and yelks together until light
2
Beat the whites to a stiff froth
3
Add almonds stirred in
4
Add the whites of eggs, brandy, rose water, extract lemon
5
Bake
Make Ahead
The almonds can be blanched, peeled, and ground up to 1 week ahead and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. The cake itself is best enjoyed the day it's baked, but it can be made 1 day ahead, wrapped tightly in plastic wrap, and stored at room temperature.
Storage
Store the cooled cake wrapped tightly in plastic wrap at room temperature for up to 3 days or refrigerate for up to 5 days. Bring to room temperature before serving. The cake can also be frozen, well-wrapped, for up to 2 months; thaw overnight at room temperature.
