Sour Apple Cake

The baking soda reacts with the natural malic acid in sour apples to create carbon dioxide, providing lift without buttermilk or cream of tartar. Grating the apples rather than chopping them distributes moisture evenly throughout the batter and allows the fruit's pectin to help bind the crumb. The lard creates a tender texture because its fat crystals are larger than butter's, coating flour proteins to inhibit gluten development. Letting the cake cool completely in the pan allows the structure to set and prevents the moist, apple-laden crumb from collapsing.